Laulau is a traditional Hawaiian dish consisting of fatty pork and salted fish wrapped in layers of taro leaves (lu‘au) and ti leaves, then steamed for several hours until the meat is fork-tender and the leaves reach a silky, spinach-like consistency. In Hawaiian culture, the term refers both to the specific meal and the ancient Polynesian method of steaming food in leaf bundles. This dish represents a direct culinary link to the origins of the Hawaiian people, combining the sacred taro plant with traditional preservation techniques.

The Anatomy of a Perfect Hawaiian Laulau

A traditional laulau is a meticulously engineered bundle of fat, salt, and earthiness. To understand why it remains a staple at every luau and family gathering, one must examine the specific roles of each component within the wrap.

The Filling: The Marriage of Pork and Fish

The core of a classic laulau almost always features two primary proteins: pork and salted fish. Traditionally, fatty cuts of pork such as pork butt or pork belly are preferred. In our experience, the high fat content is non-negotiable; during the long steaming process, the fat renders and bastes the inner taro leaves, transforming them from dry greens into a rich, savory delicacy.

The second essential component is a piece of salted "butterfish"—typically black cod. The salt from the fish serves as the primary seasoning for the entire bundle. As the steam permeates the package, the briny essence of the fish seasons the pork and the surrounding leaves. While modern variations might substitute chicken, beef, or even sweet potato for a vegetarian version, the pork-and-butterfish combination remains the cultural benchmark for authenticity.

The Inner Wrap: The Edible Soul of the Dish

The meat is encased in several layers of lu‘au leaves, which are the young leaves of the taro (kalo) plant. These leaves are the defining characteristic of laulau. Unlike the outer wrapping, these leaves are meant to be eaten. When steamed for the requisite amount of time, they absorb the juices of the pork and fish, resulting in a texture and flavor profile that is often compared to creamed spinach but with a deeper, more mineral earthiness.

The Outer Wrap: The Protective Steaming Vessel

Finally, the entire bundle is wrapped in ti leaves (lā’ī). These are large, fibrous, and incredibly durable. They are not edible. Their function is purely structural and aromatic, acting as a natural pressure cooker that seals in moisture and provides a subtle, grassy scent to the food. A well-wrapped laulau is typically tied with a string or a strip of the ti leaf stem to ensure the steam stays trapped inside.

The Science of the Taro Leaf

One cannot simply wrap meat in taro leaves and serve it immediately. There is a critical biological reason why laulau requires a cooking time of four to ten hours. Raw taro leaves contain raphides, which are needle-like crystals of calcium oxalate. If consumed raw or undercooked, these crystals cause a severe, painful itching sensation in the mouth and throat, often described as having "glass in the throat."

The long, slow steaming process is the only way to chemically break down these crystals. In our observations of traditional preparations, the leaves must lose their bright green color and turn a dark, forest green (almost black) to be considered safe and delicious. This chemical transformation is what gives laulau its signature "melt-in-your-mouth" quality.

From the Imu to the Instant Pot

The history of laulau is a history of adaptation. The traditional method of preparation involves the imu, an underground earth oven. This process begins by digging a large pit, lining it with volcanic rocks, and building a fire. Once the rocks are white-hot, they are covered with shredded banana stumps and leaves. The laulau bundles are placed on top, covered more leaves and soil, and left to slow-cook for six to ten hours. The result is a smoky, deeply complex flavor that modern kitchens struggle to replicate perfectly.

However, modern Hawaii has embraced technology without sacrificing tradition. Today, many families and restaurants use large commercial steamers, rice cookers, or even Instant Pots. While the lack of an underground pit means the smoky "imu flavor" is absent, the pressure and steam of modern appliances are exceptionally efficient at breaking down the calcium oxalate in the taro leaves, producing a consistent and juicy result in a fraction of the time.

Why May 1 Is Set to Become Laulau Day

In early 2025, a significant cultural development occurred in the Hawaii State Legislature. House Bill 957 (HB957) was introduced with the purpose of designating May 1st of each year as "Laulau Day." This bill acknowledges that laulau is more than just food; it is a symbol of unity, cultural pride, and the rich legacy of Native Hawaiian traditions.

The legislature found that the preparation and consumption of laulau are cherished practices that foster a deeper understanding of the cultural heritage passed down through generations. By establishing a dedicated day, the state aims to support local farmers who cultivate kalo, the chefs who preserve the steaming techniques, and the communities that keep the tradition alive. While it is not intended to be a state holiday, the designation of Laulau Day marks a formal recognition of the dish’s central role in the Hawaiian identity.

Cultural Significance of the Kalo Plant

To understand laulau, one must understand Kalo (taro). In the Hawaiian creation chant, the Kumulipo, Kalo is seen as the elder brother of the Hawaiian people. The first human, Haloa, was named after his brother, the first taro plant, which grew from the ground where a stillborn child was buried.

This familial connection makes the consumption of laulau a spiritual act for many Native Hawaiians. Using the leaves of the kalo to wrap and nourish the body is a way of honoring ancestors and the land ( ‘āina). This is why the quality of the leaves is often discussed with as much passion as the quality of the meat inside.

Regional Variations Across the Pacific

While the Hawaiian laulau is unique in its exclusion of coconut milk and aromatics like onions in the traditional version, it belongs to a larger family of Polynesian dishes.

  • Samoan Palusami: Unlike laulau, this version heavily utilizes coconut cream and onions inside taro leaves. It is often richer and more liquid in consistency.
  • Fijian Rourou: Often prepared as a stew of dalo (taro) leaves in coconut milk, though it can also be made into parcels known as waci poki.
  • Cook Islands Rukau: These are often baked like a casserole or prepared as parcels with corned beef or fish, frequently using coconut milk as a base.

The Hawaiian version’s simplicity—relying primarily on salt, fat, and the natural flavor of the leaves—highlights a specific culinary evolution that favored the purity of the ingredients available in the islands.

Where to Find the Most Authentic Laulau in Hawaii

For those seeking to experience laulau as the locals do, several institutions across the islands have mastered the art of the steam.

Oahu: The Culinary Hub

Helena’s Hawaiian Foods in Honolulu is perhaps the most famous destination. Serving the community since 1946, they are known for their "no-frills" approach. At Helena’s, the laulau is often served with the ti leaves already removed, allowing diners to see the glistening, dark green bundles of taro leaves immediately. It is traditionally paired with their famous pipikaula (short ribs) and a bowl of fresh poi.

Another staple is Yama’s Fish Market. This is a deli-style spot where the laulau is known for its generous portions. They offer variations including chicken and vegetarian options, making it a go-to for families with diverse dietary preferences.

The Big Island: Traditional Slow Steaming

Kaaloa's Super J's in Captain Cook is often cited by locals as having some of the best laulau in the state. Their process is famously slow, with bundles steaming for up to 10 hours. This extended cooking time results in a texture where the pork and taro leaves almost merge into a single, buttery consistency. The unassuming roadside location adds to the authenticity of the experience.

Kauai: Modest and Comforting

On the Garden Isle, Smiley's Local Grinds in Lihue provides a classic plate lunch experience. Their laulau is consistently praised for its moisture level and is frequently served as part of a combination plate with kalua pig, offering a masterclass in Hawaiian pork preparation.

How to Eat Laulau: A Step-by-Step Ritual

Eating laulau for the first time involves a specific "unwrapping" ritual that is part of the enjoyment.

  1. The Reveal: The laulau will arrive at your table as a steaming, dark green bundle wrapped in twine or leaf strips.
  2. Removing the Ti Leaves: Use your fork and knife to untie the bundle. Peel back the thick, fibrous ti leaves. Remember: do not eat these. They are the "wrapper."
  3. The Edible Core: Once the ti leaves are discarded, you are left with a soft, dark mass. This is the lu‘au (taro) leaves and the meat.
  4. The Perfect Bite: Every bite should include a piece of the succulent pork, a small flake of the salty butterfish, and a generous portion of the steamed taro leaves.
  5. The Side Dishes: To balance the richness and saltiness, laulau is best eaten with poi (which acts as a cooling starch) or hot white rice. A side of lomi lomi salmon (diced salmon and tomato salad) provides a necessary acidic crunch to cut through the fat.

Identifying High-Quality Laulau

In our experience, there are three markers of a superior laulau:

  • Moisture: The bundle should not be dry. When opened, there should be a small amount of "juice" or rendered fat at the bottom.
  • Leaf Texture: The taro leaves should be completely soft. If there is any "crunch" or if the leaves feel fibrous, they haven't been cooked long enough.
  • The Salt Balance: The saltiness of the butterfish should permeate the meat without being overwhelming. It should season the pork from the inside out.

Summary

Laulau is the definitive comfort food of the Hawaiian Islands, a dish that requires patience, respect for the land, and an understanding of ancient cooking techniques. From its roots in the underground imu to the modern kitchens of Honolulu, it remains a symbol of the Hawaiian family (ohana) and the sacred kalo plant. With the 2025 proposal of "Laulau Day" on May 1st, the state is poised to further cement this dish's place in the official cultural fabric of Hawaii. Whether you are eating it at a high-end luau or a roadside stand in Captain Cook, laulau offers a flavor that is fundamentally tied to the spirit of the islands.

FAQ

Can I eat the leaves in laulau?

You can eat the inner taro leaves (lu‘au), which are soft and dark green. However, you should not eat the outer ti leaves, which are large, light green, and fibrous; they are used only for wrapping and steaming.

Why does my throat itch after eating taro leaves?

This is caused by calcium oxalate crystals in undercooked taro leaves. To avoid this "itch," taro leaves must be steamed for several hours until they are completely soft and dark green.

Is laulau healthy?

Laulau is a high-protein, nutrient-dense dish. The taro leaves are rich in vitamins A and C, minerals, and antioxidants. While the pork provides fat, it is a traditional source of energy, and modern versions can be made with leaner meats or vegetables.

What is the difference between laulau and kalua pig?

While both are traditional Hawaiian pork dishes often cooked in an imu, kalua pig is shredded pork seasoned with sea salt and smoke. Laulau is a bundle of pork and fish wrapped in taro leaves and steamed, resulting in a different texture and the addition of edible greens.

Is there a vegetarian laulau?

Yes. Many modern Hawaiian eateries offer a vegetarian laulau that replaces the pork and fish with chunks of sweet potato (‘uala), breadfruit (‘ulu), or additional pieces of taro root (kalo).