Why Selfoss Waterfall Is the Most Elegant Hidden Gem of North Iceland

Selfoss is a breathtaking waterfall located in the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon within the Vatnajökull National Park in Northeast Iceland. Fed by the powerful glacial river Jökulsá á Fjöllum, it stands as a serene, wide, and artistic contrast to its thundering neighbor, Dettifoss.

Clarifying the Name: Waterfall vs. Town

Before planning a trip, travelers must distinguish between the two most famous "Selfoss" locations in Iceland. In the south, Selfoss is a bustling town located on the Ring Road (Route 1), often serving as a gateway to the Golden Circle. However, the Selfoss waterfall is situated over 400 kilometers (250 miles) away in the northern part of the country. If you input "Selfoss" into a GPS without specifying "waterfall," you may find yourself in a residential town rather than the edge of a dramatic canyon. To reach this natural wonder, navigate toward Dettifoss or the Diamond Circle route in North Iceland.

The Geological Masterpiece of Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon

The allure of Selfoss lies in its structural elegance rather than sheer volume. While Dettifoss—located just 1 kilometer downstream—is often called "The Beast" due to its raw power, Selfoss is frequently referred to as "The Beauty."

Basalt Columns and the Horseshoe Curve

The waterfall flows over a ledge of ancient basalt columns. As the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river reaches this section of the canyon, it encounters a series of vertical joints in the rock. These joints segment the flow into dozens of individual water veils that drape over the cliffside. The result is a wide, horseshoe-shaped amphitheater of falling water.

Geologically, Selfoss represents a "structure-controlled knickpoint." Unlike waterfalls that retreat rapidly due to soft rock erosion, Selfoss is anchored by resilient basalt. The river spreads its energy across a 100-meter width, creating a visual rhythm where the gray, sediment-rich glacial water contrasts sharply with the dark, jagged volcanic rock.

The Power of Glacial Melt

The water originates from the Vatnajökull glacier, Europe’s largest ice cap. Because it is glacial meltwater, the volume of Selfoss fluctuates significantly based on the season, temperature, and even volcanic activity beneath the ice. During peak summer, the river carries high amounts of sediment, giving the falls a milky-gray or "dirty" appearance, which adds to the raw, prehistoric feel of the North Icelandic landscape.

Deciding Your Vantage Point: East Bank vs. West Bank

One of the most critical decisions for a visitor is which side of the river to choose. There is no bridge crossing the Jökulsá á Fjöllum at this point, so switching sides requires a lengthy drive back to the main roads.

The West Bank (Road 862)

The west side is the most popular choice for general tourists and tour buses.

• Accessibility: Road 862 is fully paved from the Ring Road to the Dettifoss parking lot. This makes it accessible for all vehicle types, including small rental cars.
• Infrastructure: The west bank features well-maintained viewing platforms, paved walking paths, and modern toilet facilities.
• Perspective: From the west, you view Selfoss from a slightly elevated angle. While the facilities are better, the view of the horseshoe shape is somewhat obscured compared to the east side. You will see the cascades stretching away from you, which offers a sense of the canyon’s depth.

The East Bank (Road 864)

The east side is the preferred destination for landscape photographers and those seeking a rugged experience.

• Road Conditions: Road 864 is a gravel road. It is often riddled with potholes and "washboard" ripples. While a 4x4 is not strictly mandatory in summer, it is highly recommended for comfort and safety. This road is typically closed during winter and spring due to mud and snow.
• Perspective: This is arguably the "best" view of Selfoss. The path on the east side allows you to walk along the edge of the riverbank almost level with the top of the falls. You can look directly across the horseshoe, capturing the full 100-meter width in a single frame.
• Atmosphere: Because the road is more difficult to navigate, the east bank is significantly less crowded, offering a more tranquil connection with nature.

Hiking from Dettifoss to Selfoss

Visiting Selfoss is almost always paired with a trip to Dettifoss. The two are connected by a marked hiking trail that follows the canyon rim.

1. Start at Dettifoss: Most visitors arrive at the Dettifoss parking area (either East or West). After witnessing the thundering power of Dettifoss, look for the yellow-marked trail signs pointing "Upstream" or specifically toward "Selfoss."
2. The Trail: The hike is approximately 1 kilometer (0.6 miles) each way. It is a relatively flat walk over rocky, uneven terrain.
3. Duration: Budget 15 to 20 minutes for the walk one way. Including time for photography at both waterfalls, most visitors spend 1.5 to 2 hours at the site.
4. The Experience: As you walk upstream, the roar of Dettifoss fades, replaced by the gentler, multi-tonal splashing of Selfoss. The transition highlights the diversity of Iceland's hydraulic landscape.

Seasonal Considerations: When to Visit

Summer (June – September)

This is the golden window for visiting Selfoss. All access roads (862 and 864) are typically open. The Midnight Sun in June and July allows for photography late into the night, which is an excellent way to avoid the mid-day tour bus crowds. The water volume is at its highest during these months due to glacial melting.

Shoulder Season (May and October)

Visiting during the shoulder season is possible but requires checking road conditions daily. Road 864 (East) is often closed well into May due to thawing mud. Road 862 (West) remains the safer bet.

Winter (November – April)

In winter, Selfoss transforms into an icy kingdom. The basalt columns are often draped in giant icicles, and the surrounding canyon is blanketed in snow. However, the east road (864) is impassable. The west road (862) is plowed but can be treacherous during active snowstorms. Visitors should be prepared for extreme wind and should stay far back from the cliff edges, as snow cornices can hide the true edge of the abyss.

Essential Photography Tips for Selfoss

Selfoss is a masterpiece for photographers, but its scale can be challenging to capture.

• Lens Selection: A wide-angle lens (16mm to 24mm) is essential to capture the entire horseshoe width. However, a telephoto lens (70-200mm) can be used to isolate the textures of the basalt columns and the individual water ribbons.
• Long Exposure: To emphasize the "curtain" effect of the multiple cascades, use a Neutral Density (ND) filter and a tripod. Shutter speeds between 0.5 and 2 seconds will blur the water into silky threads without losing all the detail.
• Protecting Gear: Even though Selfoss is less "misty" than Dettifoss, wind can still blow spray onto your lens. Carry a high-quality microfiber cloth and a rain cover for your camera.
• Human Scale: Including a person (at a safe distance) in the frame can help viewers understand the massive 100-meter span of the waterfall.

Safety and Visitor Etiquette

While Selfoss appears calmer than Dettifoss, it remains a wild, unshielded natural site.

• Slippery Surfaces: The basalt rocks around the falls are often wet from spray or rain. They can be incredibly slippery. Wear hiking boots with aggressive tread.
• No Barriers: Unlike many tourist spots in Europe or North America, there are very few guardrails at Selfoss, particularly on the east bank. The ground near the edge can be undercut or unstable. Always maintain a respectful distance from the drop-off.
• Leave No Trace: Selfoss is part of a protected national park. Stay on the marked paths to protect the fragile moss and vegetation that grows in the volcanic soil.
• Drone Regulations: Drones are generally prohibited in many parts of Vatnajökull National Park to protect the peace and the local birdlife. Always check for posted signage before launching a drone.

Exploring the Diamond Circle

Selfoss is a key anchor of the Diamond Circle, North Iceland's answer to the Golden Circle. If you are visiting the waterfall, consider these nearby attractions:

• Dettifoss: The primary attraction, just 1km downstream. It is the most powerful waterfall in Europe by volume.
• Hafragilsfoss: Further downstream, offering a panoramic view of the river cutting through the deep canyon.
• Ásbyrgi Canyon: A massive, horseshoe-shaped depression that legend says was formed by the hoofprint of Odin’s eight-legged horse.
• Hljóðaklettar (Echo Rocks): A cluster of unique volcanic rock formations known for their acoustic properties and honeycomb patterns.
• Lake Mývatn: A volcanic lake area featuring geothermal baths, pseudo-craters, and the Dimmuborgir lava fields.

Summary

Selfoss waterfall is an essential stop for anyone exploring the rugged landscapes of Northern Iceland. While Dettifoss provides the spectacle of power, Selfoss provides the spectacle of form and grace. By choosing the right side of the river and preparing for the walk across the basalt plains, you can experience one of the most serene environments in the Vatnajökull National Park. Whether you are a professional photographer or a casual traveler, the panoramic view of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river spilling over the dark volcanic cliffs is a sight that defines the "Land of Ice and Fire."

FAQ

Is Selfoss waterfall free to visit?

Yes, there is currently no entrance fee for the waterfall or the Vatnajökull National Park. Parking is also generally free, though this is subject to change as infrastructure improves.

How much time should I spend at Selfoss?

If you are walking from Dettifoss, allow at least 45 minutes to 1 hour specifically for Selfoss, in addition to the time spent at Dettifoss.

Can I visit Selfoss in a small car?

Yes, but only from the West Side (Road 862), which is paved. The East Side (Road 864) is a rough gravel road that is better suited for larger vehicles or those comfortable with bumpy conditions.

Is the water at Selfoss safe to drink?

While it is glacial water, it contains a high amount of fine silt and sediment (glacial flour). It is not recommended to drink directly from the river here; it is better to stick to the clear spring water found elsewhere in Iceland.

Is Selfoss waterfall the same as the town?

No. The town of Selfoss is in South Iceland. The waterfall is in North Iceland. They are roughly 400km apart.